Ride to Amsterdam

We slept great. For the second time on this trip we had air conditioning. It is so nice to have a cool room to sleep in. The hotel had a large breakfast buffet, so we just continued our feast from last night and over-ate a second meal. We were on the road around 10 and had an easy 30 miles to the airport. It was a different experience than in past days: often I watch miles wondering why they pass so slowly. Today I wondered why they passed so fast.

We had several construction detours and had to reroute a few times — one time it was a significant reroute in a more crowded suburb of Amsterdam. Luckily, while trying to find our way we found a place where we could get a spinach smoothie.

I hadn’t been very careful with the destination address, and we ended up at the airport (technically) but several miles from where we actually needed to be. Whenever we have minor navigation challenges we think back in amazement that people found their way around this world without a computer telling them what to do next. It is amazing to think my bike computer, about ⅓ the size of a mobile phone, stores internally a map containing almost every road in the world.

We made quick work of packing our bike at the airport. Previously it had taken us 2-3 hours. Today it took us an hour. Unfortunately being ahead of schedule didn’t buy us anything, as I had told our Airbnb host we wouldn’t be to her house until 5 so she isn’t going to be there until then. We are hot and sweaty in our biking clothes schlepping around 2 panniers each and don’t feel like going into Amsterdam like this, so we are catching up on email in the airport and writing a blog entry.

We are sad to have this be over. It was a good ride.

Google Photo Album: 16 new photos added to shared album

Ride to Almere

Today we left our Airbnb around 8:30 AM and headed toward Amsterdam. Our tour took us 55 miles to a town about 15 miles northeast of Amsterdam. The first half of the ride felt like we were in small towns the entire way. It wasn’t the most scenic, but we were on a bike path and enjoyed the lack of climbing. Eventually we reached the water and as we rode south we started to enjoy more beautiful and secluded bike paths.

We stopped a few times for snacks and bathroom, but otherwise kept moving. We hit a stiff headwind with about 20 miles to go and worked against it for about 15 miles as we rode west. Eventually we changed directions to the north and went into the trees, which eliminated most of the wind.

We had reserved a hotel last night, but as is typically the case we didn’t know for sure what we were getting into. We were pleasantly surprised to ride up to a beautiful large hotel. The room cost was about $100, but it feels far nicer than a hotel room costing 4x that amount. Thank you hotels.com. 🙂

We went for a quick swim in the pool and sat in the sauna a bit. Then it was time to go search for food….

People ask if we lose weight on a trip like this. We drink so many calories of fruit juice and chocolate soy milk, and then chase that by drinking cartons of pudding and eating handful after handful of nuts. It should be no surprise we don’t lose weight. Tonight we kind of overdid the eating, as there was an all-you-can-eat Japanese restaurant next to our hotel. It had plenty of vegan and vegetarian options. We would order what we wanted on a tablet computer and within minutes, sometimes less than a minute, a server would show up with the food. When he dropped off the first plate of avacado sushi rolls we both dug in with our hands (chopsticks are too slow when famished) and nearly finished the plate before he walked away. After a few more rounds we slowed down enough to eat like civilized beings. I tried to count the number of dishes of food we ordered. They were small, but it approached 50. We were eating mostly vegetables and fruit, and probably could have kept going, but eventually decided we needed to stop. Needless to say, we are not losing any weight.

We will ride around 30 miles to the airport tomorrow, pack up our bike, and then spend the night at an Airbnb near the airport. We will have carried out tent, sleeping bags, air mattresses, and cook kits almost 1000 miles only to use them twice, but when we needed them it was great to have them. Next time we do this however we may leave them behind. They took up a lot of precious space.

We are happy, but kind of sad to have this adventure end.

Google Photo Album: Ride to Almere

Rest day in Zwolle (Eindhoven)

Picking up where the last post left off…. We rode buses and trains for about 3 hours and covered a distance that would have taken us 2-3 days to ride. Everything just flew past and I can’t remember much of the landscape. Apparently we missed seeing a cow statue on a balcony (according to our new friend who helped us navigate public transit). We hit each bus and train perfectly, arriving at church about 30 minutes early. It was really good to see Holly. She just radiated happiness. Several people commented on how consistently happy she is. It was fun to see her interact with people she had grown to love so much. We didn’t want to get in the way of the special moment between her and those she will be leaving this week to return home and restart her college education — so we mostly just enjoyed observing her and her friends’ happiness.

We had good translators who helped us understand what was being said. It is nice to experience so much consistency of faith even when the language and culture are so different. We met a man whose son was in the congregation in Aalborg (Denmark) we attended last week. It is a small world.

Our ride home began a bit frustrating, as the bus we needed to catch was late, then drove right past us because it was full. A half hour later another very full bus took pity on us and stopped. The train schedules worked well once we arrived at the terminal and we made it back to the Airbnb a little after 4.

Now we are walking around Zwolle, picking up a little food for breakfast that we can eat in our room, and finding dinner as we can’t cook tonight in our Airbnb. We found a simple small restaurant that our host recommended which had half of its menu with vegan options. The cost to eat out here tries my soul, but I’m working through it. 🙂

We are happy.

Google Photo Album: 3 new photos added to shared album

Ride to Zwolle

We are writing this Sunday morning as we ride in a train headed for Eindhoven to attend church with my niece Holly who is finishing 18 months as a missionary here. We are excited to see her. We are so grateful to a couple of locals who helped us navigate public transportation, as the train station in Zwolle is being repaired, which necessitated a slightly more involved bus transit to t’Harde where we caught our first of two trains. There was one especially helpful college student who basically had us follow her as we hustled between buses and trains. With her help we were able to just make each connection within minutes of departure. We woke up around 5 am to make sure we’d be early for our first connection, leaving the house around 6. We are grateful we were conservative with our travel estimates, or we wouldn’t have been successful this morning.

Yesterday’s ride (Saturday) was far more relaxing than Friday’s ride. We only had 50 miles to make it to Zwolle, which I semi arbitrarily selected as our destination due to its proximity to public transportation. In hindsight, t’Harde would have been a better choice, but by the time I realized that I had already arranged an Airbnb, so we made Zwolle work.

Friday night’s hotel was the best yet. We slept past 8 AM, which never happens for us. I think the air conditioning, firm bed, and blackout curtains all contributed. I think we could have stayed there another couple of days. The hotel had a massive breakfast buffet, which we took advantage of. I went for another soak in pool while Natalie caught up on email and Instagram. We started riding at about 11 AM, headed for Nijeveen, the town where our bike was built.

Most of the riding was on trails. We rode through a national forest, which was beautiful. The trees and bike path were exceptional, and there were no hills! We love the tidy Dutch homes, architecture, yards, and gardens.

We arrived in Nijeveen a little before 3 PM and met Monique, the woman partner in the company that made our bike. Nijeveen is a small town. We didn’t notice any business other than the bike shop where our bike was created. It was just starting to rain and we were able to get us and our bike out of the weather for an hour while we visited with Monique and two of her friends. It was great to see where it was created and see so many of its siblings. 🙂

We put on our wet weather gear and left for Zwolle in the rain. It wasn’t a downpour, but wet enough to make us grateful for better waterproofing than we had 2 years ago. The cobblestone streets seemed a bit slippery so we rode a bit more carefully, making it to our Airbnb around 6 pm. This accommodation was a bit different than others on this trip, as it is a room in the upper floor of the home of a young family. The hostess was exceptionally kind and accommodating, but we felt like we needed to walk extra quietly and kind of disappear into our room. We had misread the listing and were expecting to be able to cook dinner in home, but it was just a room, so we ended up buying salad and fruit. We were able to use her washing machine — and after a week of riding with only 4 changes of ride clothes, our clothes and noses needed it!

We are sad that our trip is drawing to a close. We have loved being here. We are starting to talk about next year. We are considering a rails-to-trails ride in the US or another trip to Europe. We are considering altering our approach to be more trail-focused and less destination focused. This far our routes have been determined by where we want to go. We are intrigued by the idea of having our focus be on the trail itself. Instead of riding beautiful trails for segments of our ride and filling in the gaps with streets and roads, we would commit to a trail, leaving it only when we need food or someplace to sleep.

We are happy.

Google Photo Album: 16 new photos added to shared album

Last day in Germany — ride to Assen

We are writing this on Saturday morning, as last night we were completely exhausted. We started at 7:30 in Bremerhaven, just missing the ferry about 10 minutes into our ride. We waited about 20 minutes and soon were across the river riding towards Holland. It was about 70 miles to the border.

The ride was still pretty rural with a mix of bike paths and small roads. The traffic was light and slow when we are on the road. It seemed like we passed through small towns at least once an hour and we seemed to do a better job stopping and eating. Sometimes we would eat from the food we were carrying with us and sometimes we would buy something in a café or store. On one of the larger towns we stopped at a McDonald’s so I could try their vegan burger (the Big Vegan) that is to compete with the Impossible Burger and the Beyond Burger. It wasn’t worth the stop. 🙂

As we rode Natalie reviewed for me many of Shakespeare’s classics. I tried to tell her about some of the historical non-fiction books I’ve recently finished. It was a fun way to pass the time. Sometimes we just rode in silence, lost in our own thoughts.

We crossed into Holland a little before 5 PM. It was surprising to feel such a definite difference. Holland feels more modern. This could have been due to where we were in Germany, but it was surprising to feel the difference almost immediately upon crossing the border. We had stopped at a grocery store about 5 miles before leaving Germany and one about 5 miles after entering Holland. If felt like both were in towns of similar size, yet the one in Holland seemed so much more modern and more organized. The one in Germany was consistent with the two we had visited in Bremerhaven the night before. Maybe we have a sample size problem, and maybe it is because the one in Holland had the best vegan chocolate pudding ever (it came in a carton and we just drank it like you would drink a box of milk), but we immediately fell in love with Holland’s supermarkets. Hopefully the next few days will be consistent. 🙂

The bike paths in Holland have been amazing. Sometimes there are as wide as a small road. Often they take you next to canals where you can see beautiful houses and their boats docked in the back yard. We had fought a headwind for most of the day, and that seemed to die down in the evening. We were feeling good (due to the vegan chocolate pudding super powers) so we decided to ride to Assen. This made our total milage a bit over 110 miles. In 5 days we have ridden a little over 450 miles. We are a bit tired. Luckily our Airbnb for Saturday is about 50 miles away, so we have no option but to take it easy for the last segment this week.

Part of the reason for the big push last night it is supposed to start raining today. Our ride to Zwolle will be in the rain. Gratefully we have great waterproof coats and pants — a lesson we learned the hard way on our first Europe ride.

We are staying in a nice hotel in Assen. We checked in after 9:30 PM. The place is part of a large building that has a pool which seems to be a destination in and of itself. When we asked about hours that the pool was open the front desk lady said something like: you can’t go tonight because it closes at 10. We still had to secure our bike in a special bike storage area quite far from our room and then haul out bags to our room. Clearly she didn’t know me. Needless to say, I had a solid 15 minute soak in their warm pool. Sadly there were no hot pools like Iceland, but the soak did me well. Our room is very nice and for the first time this trip we have air conditioning. We are in heaven.

It is now Saturday morning and Natalie is just waking up after 9 hours of sleep. Apparently a little bike ride does wonders for your ability to sleep well.

After breakfast note by Natalie: Our stay included a huge buffet with all kinds of options, even for vegan eaters, and we ate a large and wonderful breakfast! So good!

Google Photo Album: 19 new photos added to shared album

Ride to Bremerhaven

We loved our simple little campsite last night. We shared the tent space with three solo bicyclists and one cute cyclist family with 2 young children. They were very helpful to us, as in Germany we are finding not as many people speak English as readily as in Denmark and Sweden. When we arrived at the campsite last night it was cash only — which took a bit of help from our new friends to understand. We ended up riding into town to find an ATM. We didn’t feel much like riding more after our long day, but capitalism was calling and we had to answer.

Neither of us slept well — but Natalie had an especially poor sleep. In order to fit everything in our two small panniers we needed very small sleeping bags. Therefore our sleep kit had to extend beyond sleeping bags. For example, I brought my down coat to augment my sleeping bag. Natalie had a puffy vest, but didn’t want to dig it out. She ended up being chilled in her sleeping bag. Who knew it would be colder further south? We eventually covered Natalie’s sleeping bag with our rain gear which provided her with enough warmth to get to sleep.

We packed up and said goodbye to our new German friends and noticed the front tire was nearly flat. After 6000 miles I guess we were due for a flat. The German bike paths have been a bit hard on us — the paved paths being rougher than many of the dirt paths in Denmark and Sweden. Several times yesterday we would hit something hard with the front wheel and be amazed we didn’t get a pinch flat. Well, it turns out we did.

We quickly changed the tube and were on our way. We eventually made it to the main ferry for crossing the Elbe River west of Hamburg, missing the ferry by 10 seconds (literally the gate was dropping as we were riding up and this operator wasn’t going to let us on). Luckily there were about 5 running at the same time, so in another 20 minutes we were on our way again. The ferry also only took cash. We had almost crossed the night before, which would have been problematic because had it not been for the campsite we wouldn’t have been carrying cash. Germany is very different than Sweden and Denmark in this way as well. Everything we paid for in those two countries was electronic (usually with my phone). We had a small amount of Danish currency we were carrying with us and ended up spending it last night and this morning at a grocery store just to get rid of it.

The weather was drier than yesterday, but sometimes we had a head wind. The temperature was pleasant, just right.

Today was far more rural than any other day on our ride. We were often on small paved farm roads, only occasionally encountering cars. We would ride past some of the most beautiful homes with yards filled with flowers. Sometimes we gawked too long, missing the opportunity to take a photo. (Most of our photos are taken by Natalie as we continue to move.)

Several times our route would have us dive into the woods, leaving a nicely paved and marked path. It requires a bit of faith that the routing software knows what it is doing. It usually works for us, which is why we keep using it. We see some amazingly beautiful and random places — the types of places we would never see if we were in a car. (Many have been inaccessible to 4-wheeled vehicles.)

Since we had been so rural today we didn’t find lunch until around 3. We looked at route and accommodation options and decided that, since we were feeling flat and had ridden 300 miles over the last 3 days, we would cut the day short at 65 miles and stay in Bremerhaven, where we found a simple and inexpensive hotel room.

Hopefully we’ll rest up well and have a good day tomorrow. We are 140 miles away from our Saturday destination, but we want to arrive early to meet the person from whom we bought our bike. We’ll also try to do laundry, as on Sunday morning we are going to get up early and take a train south to try to attend church with our niece who is serving in Eindhoven. Then next week we ride to Amsterdam and pack our bike. :'(

Google Photo Album: Ride to Bremerhaven

Ride to Brunsbüttel

(Natalie writing)

We got off to a later start this morning, due to a later night. But we had slept well. We grabbed a grocery store breakfast and were pedaling by about 10:00 AM. Very soon we left Denmark and crossed into Germany.

The day’s weather was a bit all over the place — wind, rain, sun, clouds, cool, warm — but we didn’t complain when we had a tail wind sometimes. That helped us make up for the later start, and we were able to ride basically 90 miles before finding a cute, comfy campground right by the Elbe River.

Today’s route was usually near towns, and sometimes a bigger road but always with either an adjacent bike path or good shoulder. We rode through some beautiful neighborhoods and picturesque towns. We were amazed at how many wind turbines or “wind farms” we have seen. Kudos to Germany for efforts toward renewable energy.

During the day we ate “off the bike” and found a great salad bar at one grocery store for dinner. Campground showers felt good. It’s a bit chilly but dry tonight, and we’re looking forward to our sleeping bags.

Google Photo Album: 16 new photos added to shared album

Last day in Denmark

We slept well in our Airbnb. It has been hard to justify camping when you can sleep on a bed, have as long of a shower as you would like, and have a normal kitchen for the same cost. Our stays in Denmark have all been around $50 per night, including the night we slept in our tent. As I’ve started to look for accommodations in Germany I’ve begun to realize that even though Denmark felt more expensive than Sweden, both are inexpensive compared to Germany.

Today’s ride featured somewhere between 10 and 15 miles of single track and not another soul on the trail. It was so peaceful to ride in the woods in near silence. There were usually trees all around us which helped to shield us from the wind. Much of the balance of the day was on semi-abandoned roads. Today felt exceptional from a ride quality standpoint. Perhaps my favorite day yet. I just wish the single track had extended another 50 miles.

We stopped early in the day to buy a “chocolate triangle.” Think of a triangle shaped pastry the size of your head. It was like sitting down to breakfast and eating a birthday cake, with flaky layers of pastry and some kind of cream, topped with gooey chocolate. Natalie’s assistant principal had recommended it, so we had to eat one, right? We thought about eating it in parts, as some allegedly eat an elephant. The metaphor works here. But the pain of packing it up and stuffing it in our bags left us no choice but to eat the whole thing in one sitting. That’s our story at least. It was great and somehow we didn’t have a sugar coma 30 minutes after eating it.

We ate lunch at a grocery store, again. This is starting to be a habit for us. We also stopped and ate veggie pizza and salad for dinner in a quaint town called Ribe. The winds shifted in the late afternoon and we hadn’t made reservations, so we decided to bank some miles and ride with a tailwind. In less than 3 hours with the wind at our backs we covered what would have taken more than 6 hours riding into a headwind. We finished the day at a little over 100 miles and 2000 feet of vertical. We are staying in another Airbnb in Tønder. We love how unique each stay is.

I was reminded again and again today how lucky I am to have Natalie. Who else would put up with a vacation that includes 12 hours of physical exertion day after day, rides into the woods just hoping the route planning software isn’t going to lead us to a dead end, eating gigantic pastries immediately before a big ride, and just smiling when I make stupid statements like: “It’s a vacation… It’s supposed to hurt.”

Google Photo Album: Last day in Denmark

Two in a row

Today was our second rest day in a row. We couldn’t find another way to make the logistics work to see Skagen, have a Sunday rest day, and have a reasonable itinerary to make it back to Amsterdam in time for our flight. Our current plan is to ride about 520 miles over the next 6 days, taking a rest day next Sunday about 100 miles north of Amsterdam. That gives us two days the following week to ride 100 miles and then pack our bike at the airport on the end of the second day.

We hit the supermarket last night and bought food to cook, taking advantage of the fact we are staying in an Airbnb with a good kitchen. We made fried tofu and mixed it with Indian curry and some leftover stir fry vegetables from Friday night. When you’re hungry things taste good. That tasted extra good! Today we had granola for breakfast and fried some potatoes for dinner. Both nights we made delicious salads. Our wonky diets kind of get in the way of the full European experience at times, but we generally find ways to eat amazingly well and because we are eating out of grocery stores, the cost fits my tightwad ethos.

Random fact: the apple juice is really good in Denmark.

Besides eating well, we are both sleeping well. There is something about exhausting one’s body that kicks in good sleep vibes. It is so amazing not to have to wake up to an alarm clock, although we may need to set one tonight to get an early start for tomorrow. We plan to ride 85 miles to Struer, but the wind will determine if that is an easy or painful plan. Also, Natalie’s ankle continues to be a problem. We’ve been working on our coordinated cadence during shifting, wondering if somehow my pedaling during the abrupt cadence change of a downshift is causing the problem. There are tandem drivetrains which would allow one of us to stop pedaling while the other continues to work — such a system might help with the specific issue Natalie is having, so we’ll look into those after this trip.

This weekend is when the graduating high school seniors are celebrating. Big open trucks with siderails drive around full of partying seniors. There is an adult driver, like a bus driver at the wheel and music is blasting and he is honking the horn. The truck stops and seniors come running out of their homes and hop on the truck which drives away to the next lucky neighborhood. It appears the mobile party stops occasionally for food, becoming a stationary party for a bit, but no less rowdy. I’ll try to include a video snip in the album below. It is interesting to see the different traditions. They must think our Halloween hay rides are completely bonkers weird — and they’d be right. We’re just used to that form of weird.

We are currently sitting on a couch in our Airbnb listening to our stomachs rumble. We must have eaten something they are not used to…. 🙂 We are loving the oat milk here, and just had some ice cream made from oat milk which was absolutely magical. Find some. Hopefully oat milk will catch on in the US as it has here. It seems like a much more efficient way to create a milk substitute than almonds or cashews.

Our bike is running well. We have one squeaky brake pad that drives me bonkers. I even ride sometimes with the brake slightly compressed just to silence the squeak. That is saying something — I’m willing to pedal harder just to pedal in silence.

Komoot (our routing software) has done a pretty good job of finding a route for our tour. We love the software and it works well from my phone. It is extra helpful that our bike computer integrates with Komoot so I can plan a route on the side of the road and upload it into the bike computer — the whole process can take less than a minute. We usually ride with me watching the heads up display on the bike computer and Natalie has her or my phone speaking directions to us as a backup. We’ve yet to get lost, knock on wood.

Today we attended the Aalborg ward. It was quite large relative to other wards we’ve attended on these trips. The chapel was unique and beautiful and someone translated for us. While at church we met a nice man, Per, who was very familiar with the roads, as he is a trucker. He did a little research and found that the ferry from Brunsbuttel to Cuxhaven (in Germany) we had hoped to use isn’t operating. That adds about 50 miles to our itinerary but we are so grateful he figured this out before we spent an hour or two later this week at the waterfront trying to find our boat. He also offered to rescue us if needed. 🙂 One of the funnest parts of our adventures is meeting wonderful, colorful, kind people. It always makes me want to be more helpful to others, as I sense the positive impact helpful people have on us. Often small and simple act are very meaningful. Someone simply waving at us or giving a thumbs up gives us a happy boost.

Party on.

Google Photo Album: 3 new photos added to shared album

Final day on Sjælland

We left our Airbnb and kind host in Værløse for a 55 miles ride to Sjællands Odde where we had booked an Airbnb near the sea. Based on our Monday night experience of finding it difficult to get a place to stay we booked this room a day early, not knowing if we would make it to the last ferry crossing in time to make it on the last boat to Aarhus. We were overly conservative and made it with 3 hours to spare. We could have easily made it across and made further progress, but it was a unique place to stay and Natalie’s ankle injury from last year has returned so we are trying to find ways to take it a bit easier. We resolved to stop early and start early the following day.

The ride was beautiful with two ferry crossings. We weren’t sure how these would go and almost took a less scenic route to the south, but are glad it didn’t. At the first ferry crossing the ferry was just pulling out when we arrived, and they came back and picked us up. That saved us about 30 minutes which allowed us to make it to our second crossing in time to catch that ferry which left about 20 minutes after we arrived. That saved us an hour. We were grateful for a simple act of kindness that saved us so much time.

Riding out of Copenhagen was normal big city busy with way too many stops for traffic lights. After about an hour we had cleared the city and spent most of our time riding in the country or through small towns.

Our Airbnb was a place called Ydreland (look them up on Instagram #ydreland.) The house was adjacent to the ocean so I (Pete) took the opportunity to jump in. It was a tad cold out, so I shivered until a warm shower rescued me. The host, Maj, was exceptionally fun. She is an artist who makes sculptures out of trash collected from the ocean and other sources. We had a nice dinner with her and a long conversation.

Google Photo Album: Final day on Sjælland

Celebrating Natalie’s birthday in Copenhagen

(with some commentary by Natalie)

We slept medium well in the campsite last night. It was better than wild camping as having a toilet and shower made a huge difference. We were definitely ready to stay in an Airbnb again.

We started riding a bit late and took our time. Our old bodies were feeling the effect of the previous 2 days. I think the sun beating down on us as we exert ourselves is probably draining us the most. Luckily today’s ride was short — 20 miles from where we camped (Niva) to Copenhagen. It was unseasonably warm today, apparently, about mid 80sF. As we rode along the road by the beach, we found a little ice cream stand with some kind of delicious berry sorbet! Just what we needed.

Natalie spotted an interesting looking healthy fast food place as we rode into the outskirts of Copenhagen. It was called KCAL Factory. She had an amazing salad and I had an avocado sandwich. I realize we were famished, hot, and tired — but I think it might have been the best meal we’ve had on one of these rides. Perfect, as today is Natalie’s birthday.

We checked into a cozy Airbnb which had a pool, so I took advantage of it. It felt so good to jump into the water. I hope we get to go swimming in the ocean while we are here. But mostly I hope we find some hot pools like we enjoyed in Iceland. My body needs a good long recovery soak.

We walked around Copenhagen in the afternoon. At first I was feeling quite drained, but eating an extra meal and getting more fluids in me helped me keep up with Natalie. (Have any of you tried walking with her?)

Copenhagen is a beautiful, interesting city, with colorful, lovely architecture — both old and modern. We loved the city’s greenspaces as well as pedestrian-only shopping areas. Nyhavn is an especially fun area too. We took a self-guided walking tour of some of the more scenic streets and sights. It was just right.

At the end of our tour of the city we found a small Thai restaurant in central Copenhagen that was amazing, called Wokshop. It was a proper way to celebrate Natalie’s birthday. We rode the train back to our Airbnb and spent the evening winding down. We’re feeling ready for tomorrow.

Google Photo Album: Day in Copenhagen

Getting worked

I am completely worked. We rode 90 miles with only about 2000 vertical feet. I had thought we could do more, but I realized as we suffered through our last 20 miles that we have been sedentary for a week, not counting Sunday, and this is our longest ride this year and the first one with over a hundred pounds of gear strapped to our bike. That combined with 100 pounds of bike makes for a lot of mass to get up to speed.

Besides crashing into our Airbnb in Laxvik with full body shakes, here is how the rest of the day went. We rolled out from Kungsbacka around 9:00 a.m. and headed south down the western cost of Sweden. We stayed mostly on a bike trail labeled Kattegottleden 1. We chose to bypass several sections where the trail went out on peninsulas. We would have loved to have ridden there, but we felt like we needed to make up time. In hindsight, that might have been a bad idea. We have written in some amazingly beautiful places in this world. I think today’s ride was the most beautiful and scenic we have been on anywhere. There was one section we rode through that we were just absorbing it and didn’t even think to take pictures. If you are looking for an amazing bike ride, come to Sweden and ride Kattegottleden 1. You will not be disappointed. I wish we had given ourselves 2 or 3 days for this part of the ride.We arranged an Airbnb late in the day. There have been plenty of options. If the whole ride is like this we will regret bringing our tent and sleeping bags. So far the costs have been very affordable — approaching the cost of a campsite fee. The one we are in now is delightful, 200 meters from the ocean (which we can see out the window) and costs about $50. The hosts are exceptional as well. We are very satisfied. We may find it hard to leave in the morning. For food we stopped along the way eating at a roadside fast food place (veggie burger, falafel, and lots of fries), ate at a supermarket (can of peaches, Gatorade, and grape juice) and finished off by going shopping prior to heading to our Airbnb. Tonight we had rice with frozen stirfry vegetables. It was perfect for me, as I was in poor condition to eat. After walking to the beach we finished the day with chocolate pudding (vegan) and hot chocolate made with chocolate oat milk. I realize things taste extra good after a day like today, but that stuff is awesome. The brand is Oatly, and I think it is available in the US. We hardly had the energy to blog, but we love recording our memories in an effort to preserve them. Google Photo Album: Ride to Laxvik

Taking a break from our break

We’ve been going stir crazy waiting for our bike. It feels so great to finally have it again. Typically on these long trips Sunday is a full-on rest day. Today we needed the opposite. We walked to a small church near where we are staying and enjoyed worshipping with those who live here. Even though we didn’t understand everything said, enough of the service was familiar to us to be meaningful.

After church we headed back to our Airbnb and made a large lunch, which we topped off with a bag of microwave popcorn. Then we decided to stretch our legs on our bike and ride to the ocean. We rode about 30 miles, mostly on paved trails and asphalt, but true to form, ended up on some dirt roads and single track. It is an amazing experience to be riding down unknown trails far from home and just hoping the GPS isn’t playing games. I’m not sure what algorithm our routing software (komoot) uses when choosing a path, but with few exceptions it has almost always worked well for us. Today’s little ride was exceptionally beautiful — or maybe it was just that it felt so good to finally be riding. We found one especially amazing remote beach at the end of a dirt path.

Now we are winding down and packing for tomorrow. We are anxious to get some miles toward Copenhagen. Natalie’s birthday is Wednesday and we hope to spend at least part of the day there. We haven’t yet figured out where we will stop tomorrow, so we don’t have accommodations arranged for the evening. So far there seem to be plenty of options, so wild camping may not be required.

Google Photo Album: Sunday

“yeah, I know them.”

Today we are back at the airport. The online status for our bike indicated it arrived last night, so with reckless abandon we took an Uber to the airport. To get back into the baggage area there is a protocol where someone from the handling company has to come get you, as you are bypassing security by going through customs in reverse. Today as we came through, following another passenger, he helpfully pointed out that we were tailgating (totally appropriate from a security point of view). The worker escorting us simply replied “yeah, I know them.” So on the positive side, we are on first name basis with the staff here….

Our bike must be having fun in Paris, as it wasn’t on its expected flight. Now we are waiting for an update for the next chance for it to get on a flight. If it looks like we will not make it out of here before Sunday, we will find an Airbnb near a church and take a day of rest. It is a good thing we hadn’t made reservations as with previous trips. If we start riding on Monday we will be starting our 3 week bike trip behind by half a week. We will probably need to adjust our route in order to make it to Amsterdam in time for our flight home. This year we won’t be riding 1000 miles.

It is a bit frustrating and discouraging, but it is important to maintain perspective. Given the real problems in our world, our little mishap doesn’t even register. The staff here has been helpful and courteous. The people we have spoken with on the phone and via Twitter have also been professional. We are grateful for the people, just not grateful for the situation. Maybe for our next trip we will only consider direct flights.

It will all work out.

Exploring the abandoned city

The first half of the day was spent at the airport trying to encourage the airlines to look for our bike boxes. Maybe I’m just overly sensitive, but finding it didn’t seem to be high on anyone’s list. The common answer felt like “call us tomorrow and we’ll see if it turns up.” Eventually a Delta agent I contacted through Twitter responded that the bike boxes were slated to be here by 5. While that didn’t happen, at least it was more specific. Air France is now saying they will arrive at midnight.

We realized that being at the airport wasn’t producing any results, so we took a bus into Gothenburg. We checked into a hotel here and then walked around the city. The place feels abandoned. Today is a Swedish holiday called Midsummer. It is amazing how much of the city is closed. However, we still enjoyed walking in the beautiful green parks and seeing the city center and port area. And we found raspberry sorbet!

Tonight we ate dinner (found a yummy Indian food place open) and did some minimal food shopping. We hope to be on our bike and riding south tomorrow. Fingers crossed that it really arrives on the midnight flight. We are both fighting to stay awake hoping that we’ll have a more normal night’s sleep. This is a different start than we had planned, of course, but we’re enjoying being on vacation together in an interesting, pretty, new-to-us part of the world!

Google Photo Album: Day in Gothenburg

First hiccup

We arrived in Gothenburg yesterday on schedule, but our bike and checked panniers didn’t. Natalie thinks our bike wanted to party in Paris and missed the flight on purpose. Hard to fault the bike for having the celebratory spirit when in France. Now we are spending quality time on the phone with Delta and Air France trying to find it….

We were able to find a cozy Airbnb close to the airport. Uber filled the transportation gap left by our wayward bike. On previous trips our first day has always involved a long ride, which may have made it easier to sleep on the first night during those trips. Neither Natalie nor I slept very well last night due to jet lag. The Airbnb was very comfortable, and our hosts were delightful, friendly, and helpful.

Today’s plan is a bit up in the air. We are at the airport now but waiting here isn’t going to speed the arrival of our bike, so we may find a place to store our luggage and head into Gothenburg and attempt the normal tourists approach to a vacation.

We hope we can be riding by tomorrow.

Update later in the day: The airport notified us they have located or bike boxes and they should arrive tonight!

Google Photo Album: Airbnb near Gothenburg

It’s go time

We spent the last couple of days packing our bags and bike. It is an interesting experience to try to jam 3 weeks worth of stuff into two small panniers. I’m always surprised when everything seems to fit.

Taking the bike apart and fitting it into two bike boxes is a real-life 3D Tetris experience. This year we are using two boxes I retrieved by dumpster diving near a local bike shop. One is a bit small and we were barely able to fit the front half of our bike in it. The bike has to be broken down into a multitude of smaller pieces to fit in the box. In previous years we’ve nearly lost some of these pieces when the boxes failed during their ride on the airplane with us. So this year I attempted a different strategy. I rigged nylon straps that hopefully will hold the box together. We will see how that turns out….

Checking in at the airport in Salt Lake was a little bit more work this time. The people who were security checking the bike boxes decided they needed to take every single thing out. The bike pretty much only fit if everything was packed in the right order, and as they attempted to put things back in they didn’t quite discover the right order. By the time they repacked one of the boxes it was bulging heavily on the sides. When they got ready to put the straps back on they finally caved and let me help.

Right now I am writing this sitting in Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris. Neither of us slept very well in the plane, but now we’re trying to stay awake. In about an hour we board our plane to Gothenburg Sweden. We land around 5:00 p.m., so we just made reservations at an Airbnb close to the airport. Our goal will be to land, put our bike together, and ride to our Airbnb before we fall asleep…. Also, while sitting in the airport, I started planning the first leg of our route along the coast of southwestern Sweden. Some might argue I am a bit late planning details such as this. They would probably win that argument.

We are so excited to start riding. If we can just stay awake.

Getting ready for our next ride

Some people commented that our Iceland blog ended abruptly. Sorry about that. It was an amazing experience and we love looking back at the photos and remembering the beauty of the country. We are so glad we did it.

We returned home, moved into a different home, and got busy with life. Our new home is minutes from the Jordan River Parkway trail and we love being able to ride so easily.

This year’s trip will take us back to Europe. We fly into Gothenburg Sweden and will make our way to Amsterdam over the next 3 weeks. We haven’t fully determined our route — we’ll make it up as we go, giving us maximum flexibility. We plan on riding about 1000 miles and mixing up tent camping with Airbnb for accommodations along the way. Unlike 2 years ago, we don’t have a single reservation — only a plane ticket there and a plane ticket home.

We are a lot more confident (overconfident?) about our ability to figure out the logistics as we go. We will have access to more resources than we had in Iceland, so we won’t be dragging a trailer with food and water. We will fit our sleeping bags in our panniers (cutting down on our already limited space) and attach our tent below our bike to keep the center of gravity low.

We can’t wait to hit the road again.

Last ride in Iceland … to Keflavik

We woke up Tuesday morning to a very windy, chilly day. We ate breakfast and did a good job of running our food supply down to almost zero. It’s funny how a big ride like this kicks in some instinctive food hoarding behavior — we’ve been constantly trying to stock up on food and running our supply out required mental effort.

It was sad to leave our Airbnb as it had been such a nice place to stay and nest. Compared to our other rides, the ride to the airport was short, and it was easy to mentally discount it as nothing, but it was going to be 30 miles in wind and take 3-4 hours. Plus, we were going to be in traffic for 3/4 of the time.

Gratefully the ride was uneventful, although probably the windiest of our entire trip. We had a strong sidewind for most of the ride which constantly tried to push us into traffic. The road from Reykjavik to Keflavik has a great shoulder — easily the best in Iceland — and we took full advantage of it. We felt safe, even in the high wind. Our ride sometimes took us near cool lava fields and the ocean shore. It was, as has almost always been the case in Iceland, beautiful.

Our final night’s accommodation is at Alex guesthouse where we are staying in a tiny cabin — you know the ones that could double as a tool shed (it is cool how they pack so much house into such small space). It is about a mile from the airport.

We arrived cold and chilled from the winds and spent the first hour huddled around a space heater trying to warm up. Then it was down to business packing our bike. It comes apart at the middle, but requires a bit of work to fit it into bike boxes. We had arranged many months ago for our final hotel to store our boxes. They picked them up at the airport after we had assembled the bike and stored them in a shed. We were glad we had figured this out prior to arriving in country. We saw other fellow bike tourists caching their boxes under the building near the airport where we assembled the bikes and just hoping nobody would take them or clean that area. It was nice to not have to worry as both of us seem to have a nice talent for worrying.

Boxing the bike is something of a process. If there was going to be one effort on this trip that would put strain on our relationship, this was going to be it. Happily we did fine with no stress. It helped that we were in a comfortable shed out of the wind. Getting the bike into two boxes requires some disassembly of the bike. Our bike boxes had been well thrashed by the airline on the flight to Iceland. The boxes had cut outs for handles, which ended up being points of weakness and those cutouts were now large holes, so part of our effort was finding ways to patch the holes but still allow for the airline to be able to pick the boxes up easily. We pieced them together in a way we hope will hold and they are now ready for another airline thrashing. These are the boxes we bought in the airport in Amsterdam. It would be so nice if every airport sold bike boxes. That would eliminate the logistics associated with storing bike boxes and allow people to give away their boxes upon arrival.

We met a few groups beginning their bike trips today. One was a group of men from the U.K. — they were funny and enthusiastic — kind of that nervous humor where one says “we have no idea what we are getting ourselves into, but if we laugh about it, somehow that makes everything safer.” Another was a couple of women from Germany riding an orange tandem. Too bad we had just finished boxing ours or we could have taken a picture of the dueling orange tandems. Theirs was not a recumbent, of course.

Then to Netto (our favorite grocery store here) down the street to buy a few items for dinner. Breakfast is included with our stay here.

I (Pete) headed to the local pool for a final soak. Since Natalie wasn’t coming I knew I was going to have to pull her weight and do a double soak. It was, as always, awesome. Toward the end the professional football (soccer) team for the town/village of Keflavik came in for their post-practice soak. It is crazy to think that such a small town has a professional soccer team. It is similar to Roy or Morgan in Utah having their own professional soccer team…. I guess that is why Iceland was playing in the World Cup and the US wasn’t.

We planned to head to the airport at 5:30 AM but our flight has already been delayed 3 hours. Luckily we have a long layover in Minneapolis, so our itinerary can easily absorb it.

Natalie’s parting comment:

Wow, Iceland, what an experience!! We are sad to see it end, but it will also be very good to be home.

R&R in Reykjavik

We’ve been recuperating for two days in Reykjavik. Any weight we had managed to lose is back, and then some. One’s body tends to get used to consuming all calories available while riding 12+ hours a day, but it is also burning said calories. Now that we are just lounging around with more calories than we need at our fingertips, we are binging without burning.

Similarly we are sleeping a ton. Last night I slept 11 hours. I normally sleep 7.

Friday was rainy. We were happy that we were not logging miles on our bike. The campground was a madhouse. I’m really sad I didn’t get a picture of it. The more we walked around the more tents we saw. I would estimate 500 people were in the campground. They were all wet like us. And the whole place was very muddy. This campground was expensive — almost $50 for the two of us.

We went to the nearby pool and soaked our sore bodies for an hour and a half. It was raining lightly and we may have stayed longer but we needed to get out of the campsite by 2 or we would have had to pay for a second day. We had reserved an inexpensive hotel a little bit away from the city center — close to our Airbnb for Saturday through Tuesday. Even though the ride was less than 5 miles it was actually a bit tough. Downtown Reykjavik has several hills which combined with rain and a confusing route to the hotel made for a difficult ride. It probably didn’t help that our muscles were all relaxed from soaking and our bodies were saying to us “what’s up — I thought you gave us the day off!”

However, once we made it to the hotel we were back in heaven. The room was small and simple, but compared to a wet 2-man tent in the middle of 500 stinky, muddy (like us) campers, the hotel felt like it was a 5-star luxury resort. First things first: tent and fly get unrolled and stuffed under the hotel bed to dry and then long showers for both of us. We found a great Indian restaurant nearby and ate until it hurt. Then we slept soundly.

At the hotel our bike was able to be stored inside for first time on this trip! We really appreciated the hotel staff for that. When we traveled Europe our bike was almost always stored indoors. On this trip it’s been a lot more out in the elements — like us. Except we don’t have a tent for the bike…. So at the hotel, the bike was tired yet happy too. It has worked hard!

I think I could have sat around in the hotel room for the rest of the day today and been content, but we are in Iceland with so much to see — so Natalie motivated us to take the bus back to the city center and walk around. We were able to walk around in a 3-masted ship used by the Italian Navy to train its cadets which just happened to be at port. We mostly walked around, looking at the ships and city architecture and art, strolling along the seashore, enjoying the perfectly sunny day. So nice after such a rainy yesterday. We ate vegan ice cream for lunch.

Around 3 PM we bussed back to our hotel and rode our bike to our Airbnb. It is perfect — ground floor with a fenced area to store our bike and hang a clothes line. The first order of business was to do laundry. We were smelling bad! It is so nice to be able to wash our clothes. The campground had two washers, but they were shared with 500 people so you can guess what that line looked like.

After getting our laundry started drying outside we headed for a grocery store where we bought food for the next three days. We cooked a great meal and finished it with vegan ice cream.

It was a good day.

The indecisi-century to Reykjavik

Our plan for Thursday, Friday, and Saturday was to piece together our ride into Reykjavik with three 30-50 mile segments. It was raining when we woke up so we were slow in breaking camp at Varmaland. We had 2 goals for the day: find a village with food and make it to Ferstikla to camp. Also, not getting killed by a car was out there as a soft goal. We had planned to stay to the east and avoid route 1 (part of the not get killed by a car objective). This plan worked well for about 30 miles but then we decided against the mountain pass due to weather and decided to try our luck on route 1 again. It was a madhouse and we were grateful when we had to exit before the tunnel. This little detour had added about 10 miles to our ride to Ferstikla and aged us both 10 years.

The inland route (from before they built the tunnel into Reykjavik) was beautiful and there were far fewer cars. We made it to our destination by 4, but we still had legs and decided to change plans and do Friday’s ride also. The next few hours were some of the best of our trip. So beautiful and peaceful! Even worth the hilly road. Everyone who drives through the tunnel north of Reykjavik is missing out….

We had almost finished this segment by 8 PM when we started talking about just finishing the loop and heading back to route 1 to Reykjavik even though it would increase our mileage for the day up to 100. There were several factors:

  1. The weather had improved and the winds were dying down.
  2. We were running out of food and facing the possibility of having to eat a cucumber, cliff bar, and perpetuem for breakfast — yum!
  3. There is a big holiday coming up which was going to pack the outbound lanes, which makes it harder for people coming up behind us to safely pass — getting in front of the holiday made sense.
  4. The mountain road we intended to take was under construction — we had happened to meet an experienced local cyclist coming off of it on a gravel bike and he said it was even difficult for him to get through.
  5. We would be hitting route 1 after 9 PM and thought traffic might be better that late.

So we changed our minds again and made for Reykjavik via route 1. There was still a lot of traffic, but definitely less than at 4-5 PM when we’d been on it earlier, and we also had a small shoulder that helped a ton. As we got closer to Reykjavik we even rode on a bike path. We were baked by this point. We lucked out and found a 24-hour grocery store, so we could provision breakfast. We drug our worn out bodies into the campground around midnight.

The plan was to eat dinner, but neither of us had the energy to even open a bag of chips. We ate a few fresh tomatoes (bought much earlier that day in a village) and crashed. We slept solidly.

Next post we’ll talk about the campground and the adjacent swimming pool.

Natalie here: The ride was tough but so beautiful (if you ignore the traffic parts) and we really feel good about having changed our plans. There were several serendipitous moments. We are tired, grateful, and happy. We only have a 25-mile ride left to the airport on Tuesday! So exciting! What a big crazy goal this has been.

Ride to Varmaland

Today’s ride started with a sustained climb into dense fog. The traffic was light and mostly moved over when they saw our flashers. The climb was such a grade that we could churn along slowly without pushing our legs to their limits. After reaching the summit it was pretty much downhill to our campground. Today’s ride was just under 50 miles. Our mileage these last few days will be lower, as we are close to Reykjavik now and no longer have to bank miles. Instead we are planning a slight detour into Reykjavik that takes us east and avoids the section with a tunnel that was going to require us to put our bike on a bus. (Bikes are not allowed in that tunnel.) The campground we are in is really unique. It used to house some small university, but now has a cucumber farm and a grade school. And it has a swimming pool, of course. We made it here before 4 and soaked for a little more than an hour. Every campsite needs a swimming pool…. Today Mr. Frugality had to face an uncomfortable fact. In the airport a kind tourist recommended that we buy a camping card — something that lets you camp for free at campgrounds in Iceland. For $200 we only needed to use it 8-10 times for it to pay off. Easy! We bought one the first night but then discovered that it is only accepted at a subset of the campgrounds here. Tonight we will use it for our third and last time. I think it could work out better for people in cars. There were several times that we were within 25 miles of a campground that would accept it — but on our bike, that usually was too much out of our way. Note from Natalie: After a very foggy, misty beginning, the day became beautiful and sunny as we descended into a green valley north of Reykjavik. The campground has filled up as usual. Vertical feet gained today — close to 1500. Much nicer than a close-to-4000 day!

Blönduós to Staðarskáli

We are in the northwestern region of Iceland. We are working our way around to the west coast, and tonight we are within 100 miles of Reykjavik. Strange to think that we are that close to accomplishing our goal.

A word about campgrounds here: It is interesting how so many campers arrive so late. I’m sure some of that is due to basically no night here in the summer months — you can wander and explore all night if you don’t get tired! Sometimes we’ll get into a campground at maybe 7pm and it’ll be fairly empty but by 10pm it is jam packed. Most of the campgrounds (for 2 people for one night) have been between 20 and 35 U.S. dollars.

The day began with some sun and clouds, which was lovely. Later it got cloudier and eventually rained, but rather softly. Generally favorable winds. We have really truly lucked out on this trip when it comes to winds. Today was maybe 10° F warmer than yesterday and that made a huge difference for us.

We had a few sections of road with a rideable shoulder again, which was very nice. In the morning the traffic wasn’t bad, but by evening it was much busier. I thought most of the drivers were accommodating, however. We didn’t get driven off the road or even close today.

Terrain was similar to yesterday: hills, green valleys and farms, and rivers, with some last views of the northern ocean fjords. Beautiful. But we did not have any crazy steep long hills today!! Yesssssss. That felt great. Lots of small ones but none that were painfully steep or long.

We are in a “self-check-in hotel” tonight, in an area not really close to any particular town. The accomodations are old and simple yet clean, and include breakfast. It was very cheap compared to other places we’ve stayed indoors so far. We used a tea kettle to boil water for our backpacking food and ate in the big room where we’ll have breakfast tomorrow. The hotel is full or almost so. This country is so busy with tourists and local vacationers.

We are tired, probably mostly from our longer day yesterday. We have showered, eaten, rehydrated, and hung up all our damp clothing. We will probably sleep well, as has happily been our norm this trip!

Pete’s note: Tomorrow we will climb our last major hill and then descend to a campground a little north of Reykjavik where we will stay one night and then try to figure out how to get our bike on a bus to get through the tunnel to Reykjavik. (Bikes aren’t allowed in this tunnel, and even if they were we probably wouldn’t want to be in it with the traffic….) It is weird to think this part of our adventure is almost over. We’ll do a few tourist things in and around Reykjavik, as our flight home isn’t until next week. We gave ourselves extra time in case the weather set us back. For us, successfully circumventing the country was as much a factor of the weather as anything else. And as Natalie said above, we’ve been super lucky with favorable weather. The biggest surprise has been the traffic, and I think most of our traffic challenges probably involve tourists — some from countries (like the U.S.) that aren’t always bike aware. And it is just one out of a hundred that buzz by too close and too fast — but it just takes one to create a tragedy and our experience is jaded by the few close calls. Every once in a while we have the opposite experience — someone slows all the way down to our pace, passes slowly, and then gives us a thumbs up out the window. It makes us happy for hours. This type of thing applies to so much more than biking. Hats off to everyone in this world who goes out of their way, often with small gestures, to make the world better for others.

Ride to Blönduós

Goodbye and thank you Akureyri! It was great to spend a few days relaxing and resting. Our Airbnb worked out wonderfully. We were able to cook all of our meals there and let our gear air out, and we felt very at home. We hydrated like crazy: I think we drank 10 liters of juice, oat milk, and chocolate oat milk. That’s not counting the water we constantly drank. We also ate a lot. We spent about $150 at the grocery store and almost ate everything we bought. We enjoy cooking together, and given our restrictive diet, it works so well to be able to cook for ourselves. Plus, it costs less….

Because we were coming off two rest days and had decent weather/winds we pushed and completed 90 miles today with almost 4000 feet of climbing. The climbing came mostly in two sustained hills with grades around 6 percent peaking near 10 percent. We started the day with 3 big climbs left on our entire trip and completed two of them today. That is a good feeling. The last one comes on Wednesday.

We had misty rain on and off throughout day. By the time we rolled into our campsite we were soaked with rain and sweat. The temperature was a bit below 50 and we quickly got chilled. Luckily this site has hot showers, which we made great use of. It was a little late to hit the local pool.

Traffic was not horrible, but still busy. We actually had a rideable shoulder for some of the ride. We’ve rarely had that in Iceland. Our next two days will have difficult traffic with narrow shoulders.

As usual, the scenery was amazing: green river valleys, jagged mountain ranges, farmland — beautiful.

Today, more than usual, we saw several cyclists going the other way. We played leapfrog with one cyclist going our way and ended up sharing fries with him at a stop. He was from the Netherlands and headed to the interior.

We are staying in a campground in Blönduós. After long hot showers we cooked nice hot soup and ate chocolate almonds. Life is good.

We’re practically retired

Super restful day today. We slept in, had a nice breakfast, went to church, had a nice lunch, went to a concert at another church, had dinner, and are finishing the day with hot chocolate. The only thing missing was another soak at the pool.

The weather has been nice, with a light rain in the afternoon. Right now it looks like we will have decent weather for at least the next 3 days — possibly to the end of the week. Our fingers are crossed….

We have less than 250 miles left, but 3 significant climbs and at least one full day of difficult traffic. This thing isn’t over yet!

We’ve enjoyed our rest days in Akureyri and are ready to start again tomorrow.